From the Journal
Shio Pan Showdown: An Editorial Guide to Japanese Salt Bread Across KL and Selangor Bakeries
An editorial guide to shio pan across KL and Selangor, drawing on a 20-bakery taste test, with tips on judging crust, butter pull and value before you queue.
Malaysia Authentic
Updated

Shio pan — Japanese salt bread, known in Korea as sogeum-ppang — has become one of the Klang Valley's most competitive bakes. At its best it is a small roll built on butter, salt and milk, with a crisp exterior giving way to a soft, airy crumb and a pocket of melting butter inside. TheSmartLocal Malaysia recently taste-tested shio pan from 20 bakeries across Kuala Lumpur and Selangor, ranking them from Kefi Kohi at 20th to DouDou Bake at first place (TheSmartLocal Malaysia). This guide turns that testing into a practical way to plan your own bakery crawl.
What Separates a Great Roll From an Ordinary One
Across the 20 rolls sampled, the same criteria kept separating winners from the rest:
- Crust — a glossy, golden, croissant-like crispness scored highly; bakes with no real crust or salt (such as Smith Bakery & Cafe's RM7 roll) sank to the bottom.
- Butter cavity — the signature molten centre matters. Kefi Kohi's RM8 roll was marked down for lacking both a butter hole and a crisp exterior.
- Seasoning balance — Orito at Plaza Damas (RM8) was the saltiest roll tested, while The Baking Xperiment's RM9 version was under-seasoned.
- Value — prices ran from RM3 to RM10, and the priciest roll was not the winner.
Keep in mind that the ranking reflects one publication's editorial taste test — not an official industry standard.
The Podium Picks
DouDou Bake, Taman Rasa Sayang, Petaling Jaya took the top spot. Its RM6 shio pan earned praise for a glossy golden crust, a flaky croissant-like exterior, a pillowy interior, and even distribution of butter and salt — the benchmark version.
Sunny Side Up Cafe, Brickfields came second at RM6.50. It is tucked behind the Riviera City parking lot on Jalan Tun Sambanthan, and impressed with a golden brown crust and well-balanced butter and salt.
Cafe Gentle Mess, Taman Desa Aman, KL — perched atop The Graph Hotel — placed third at RM7.50, delivering a light, airy, salty and buttery roll that the testers compared to Adough Atelier's.
Character and Variety
If you want more than the classic, The Bread Project in SS4, PJ (RM6.50) sells plain salted butter rolls alongside taro and red bean variations, all with a delectable crunch. Adough Atelier in Sri Hartamas offers a premium RM10 version with coarse sea salt and a crunchy shell over fluffy dough. Buttersome Bakery in Seksyen 17, PJ (RM6) baked the largest roll tested, with a crackling sesame-seeded bottom — though it leans salty. For a twist, Shio Artisans, also in Sri Hartamas, makes a palm-sized sourdough version (RM6.50) with a sour, yeasty edge.
Budget Finds Under RM5
Two affordable options stood out. Verrona Hills' RM3.90 shio pan is hefty with a buttery crunch, while Barcook's RM3 roll is the smallest of the lot but has the fluffiest, lightest dough. If budget drives your choices, these prove a satisfying roll need not cost RM8–RM10.
Planning Your Own Crawl
- Compare like for like: start with a classic butter shio pan before branching into fillings.
- Ask when the batch came out — the crisp exterior is the whole point, and it fades fast.
- Don't dismiss cheaper bakeries; the RM3–RM4 picks beat several premium rolls in the test.
- Manage expectations at lower-ranked spots: Chef Kecik Boulangerie (RM8.10, tiny and greasy), Osha Dan Terra (RM7.50, overly greasy) and KLCG in Medan Pasar (RM7.50, dry with dense dough). Universal Bakehouse in Damansara Kim (RM8) still stood out for notably pillow-soft dough despite a mid-table finish.
- Lavender Bakery's RM4.50 version missed most of the criteria, so it is one to skip if you only have one stop.
Visual note: this AI-generated illustration is not a photograph from a visit to the listed venues.
Frequently asked questions
What is shio pan?
Shio pan is Japanese salt bread, a small roll made with butter, salt and milk, typically featuring a crisp golden exterior, a soft airy interior and a cavity of melting butter. In Korea, a similar bread is popularly known as sogeum-ppang.
Which bakery topped the Klang Valley shio pan ranking?
In TheSmartLocal Malaysia's 20-bakery taste test, DouDou Bake in Taman Rasa Sayang, Petaling Jaya ranked first, praised for its RM6 shio pan's glossy golden crust, flaky crisp exterior and even butter and salt distribution.
How much does shio pan cost in KL and Selangor?
Prices in the 20-bakery test ranged from RM3 at Barcook to RM10 at Adough Atelier in Sri Hartamas. Well-regarded budget options include Verrona Hills at RM3.90 and Barcook at RM3.
What should I look for when buying shio pan?
Key markers are a glossy, golden, croissant-like crisp crust, a soft and airy interior, a visible butter cavity, and balanced saltiness. Rolls lacking a butter hole, crust or adequate seasoning scored lowest in the taste test.
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